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名媛与旗袍

热度 9已有 1708 次阅读2015-3-6 11:16 |系统分类:女性世界| 宋庆龄, 科学技术, 上海滩, 徐志摩, 珠光宝气 分享到微信

名媛与旗袍

  蔡文青 徐景灿 宋路霞

  旗袍是中国传统服饰文化中的一颗明珠。海派旗袍是融汇了海派风韵的旗袍精华。上海名媛旗袍则是海派旗袍中最精彩、靓丽的绝代华章。

   《上海名媛旗袍宝鉴》(上海科学技术文献出版社2015年1月版)汇集了五十件上海名媛穿过的、反映她们半个多世纪以来对服饰美学的理解和追求的旗袍。 这些旗袍是物质的,珠光宝气,五彩缤纷,典雅华贵,面料和款式各异,反映了纺织、设计、裁剪、缝纫、绣工等技术方面的变化和演进;同时也是精神的,承载了 当时美学、礼仪、时尚、社交、中外交流等诸多方面的社会信息。这些诞生于上海滩的最美丽的女士服装,尤其是作为礼服的长旗袍,是对中国传统旗袍的成功革 新,曾经引领了全国时尚女装的新潮流,因而华彩四射,魅力无穷,历久弥新,备受瞩目。

  收 入本书的旗袍的主人有:宋庆龄、宋美龄、张乐怡(宋子文的夫人)、吴健雄、吴贻芳、严幼韵(顾维钧夫人)、赵四小姐、蒋士云、张幼仪(徐志摩元配夫人)、 唐瑛、顾菊珍、杨雪兰、牛恩德等等。还收有李鸿章家族、盛宣怀家族、刘秉璋家族、张静江家族、荣宗敬家族、孙家鼐家族、席家花园、苏州贝家等海上望族的后 人的旗袍。也有几位老上海们崇拜了一辈子的电影明星,如夏梦、陈云裳、李丽华穿过的旗袍。

   她们有的是女界精英,女中豪杰,绝代风华,一生对中华民族做出了杰出的贡献,她们的追求和气质反映在她们的旗袍服饰上,自有一番不同凡响的风韵。她们中 有的是名门佳人、大家闺秀、贤妻良母和社会名流,打开本书就会明白,由于时代和环境的各种原因,“西风东渐”把她们塑造成引领上海滩时尚的新女性。她们的 旗袍面料考究、质地上乘、色泽高雅,既有传统的中国丝绸,也很乐于采用舶来品的薄呢、蕾丝和珠绣织品。至于做工之精细、线条之流畅、款式之多样、盘扣之巧 思、绣工之精美、开衩之适度、搭配之得当……怎么看都令人赏心悦目。

  或许,这种既传统又 现代,既东方又西方,把西方的裁剪、面料、搭配融入东方神韵的海派旗袍,才是名媛们所追求的。这种高贵典雅,沉稳内敛,恰到好处的精致,为上海女性赢得了 无与伦比的风采和荣誉,经过岁月的磨砺,几十年、甚至半个多世纪过去了,如今展现开来,仍令人眼前一亮,堪称“旗袍家族”里的精华。

   上海名媛一向是追逐时尚的标兵,她们见多识广,崇尚高雅,追求精致,善于改良,向往典雅、高贵、内敛的气韵。因此可以说,上海名媛的旗袍代表了海派旗袍 的最高水准,上海也就诞生了一批中国最会穿旗袍的女性,她们不仅在中国引领旗袍文化的新潮流,还成功地走向世界,在国际交往中,充分展现了中国女性的魅力 和风采,既推动了海派服饰的演进,也丰满了中国女性的国际形象,有着特殊的魅力。宋家三姐妹、严家三姐妹、席家花园小姐……都堪称这方面的典范。

  由于种种复杂的原因,民国时期的名媛旗袍留在祖国大陆的已成凤毛麟角。这五十件旗袍大多来自美国、日本、新加坡和香港地区,得来实属不易。为收集这些名媛旗袍,我们付出了多年的辛勤努力。好在我们获得了上海名媛及其后代们的大力支持,我们衷心地感谢他们!

  我们决心把这件有意义的工作继续进行下去,为抢救、收集、保存和研究中华民族这一服饰奇葩,继续作出不懈的努力,希望得到社会各界的大力支持。

  (本文为《上海名媛旗袍宝鉴》前言)


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Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
Image result for 夏梦与旗袍
名媛与旗袍_图1-401

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刚表态过的朋友 (9 人)

发表评论 评论 (5 个评论)

回复 新兰 2015-3-7 04:16
旗袍将女性之美与丑尽显!——名媛+旗袍=绝配!相得益彰!相映生辉!
回复 江湖e郎 2015-3-6 21:52
十里洋场好课题。
回复 阿彭 2015-3-6 15:27
ImYoona: 夏梦最漂亮。

怎么还有四个男的?
是客串吧.
回复 ImYoona 2015-3-6 15:06
夏梦最漂亮。

怎么还有四个男的?
回复 qqqnyc 2015-3-6 13:36
谢谢分享。

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