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朋友,如果您问我哪里有令人向往陶醉的人间仙境,我会毫不犹豫地指向加拿大落基山脉。而那人间仙境最有代表性的是那些镶嵌在皑皑雪山中闪烁着绿宝石和蓝宝石光芒的高山湖泊。看了我那些管中窥豹的湖景照片,有个网友由衷地赞道∶“这些湖美得令人心痛。这辈子一定要去一次!”这里先向大家简单介绍一下那里如诗如画如梦如歌的四大名湖。
如诗的翡翠湖(Emerald Lake)
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如画的梦莲湖(Moraine Lake)
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如梦的露易丝湖(Lake Louise)
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名字梦幻唯美的露易丝湖(Lake Louise)是落基山脉中最有名,最受欢迎的湖泊,原因就是她那悬挂在巨大冰川下碧绿色的湖水面,宛若一块翡翠般地迷人,因此又有“落基山脉的宝石”之称。不过露易丝湖的名称由来,也有个典故。当年西北公司勘探技师威尔先生在印第安人带领之下到达露易丝湖,便被这一片翠绿湖面所吸引,因此便先给它取名为“翡翠湖”。第二年又将它改为“露易丝湖”,来献给当时英国维多利亚女皇四女露易丝公主。作为露易丝湖之源头的巨大冰川也被顺理成章地命名为维多利亚冰川,像是母亲慈爱地怀抱着女儿,深情相依,形成一幅构图完美的风景照。
如歌的玛琳湖(Maligne Lake)
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注∶ 以下是加拿大落基山国家风景区包括四个紧邻的国家公园∶Banff, Jasper, Yoho and Kootenay(该园因几年前一场超级大火而元气大伤,去的人较少)(参见如下见图)。
翡翠湖(Emerald Lake)坐落于 Yoho National Park;梦莲湖(Moraine Lake)和路易斯湖(Lake Louis)坐落于 Banff National Park;玛琳湖(Maligne Lake)则坐落于 Jasper National Park.
旅游资料:
六月皑皑雪山,粼粼湖光,稀稀游客,攘攘动物,乃最佳访落基山时间。
我们2004年仲夏(8月底至9月初)初访三天:第一天,阳光漫漫;第二天,烟雨茫茫;第三天,白雪飘飘。
2009年6月再访,我们有幸天天看到熊(包括棕熊)。参见“熊妈妈和她的宝宝们-加拿大落基山纪实”。
如没有时间寻熊,可参加JASPER的商业观熊团。一对参加观熊团父子告诉我,他们在三小时内(7:30-10:30PM。六月加拿大洛基山十一点才天黑)见到三回熊,包括在觅食的熊妈妈和她的三只宝宝。他们还用手机录到熊妈妈一掌把一只淘气的妨碍她刨食物的小熊打出好几尺远。
以下是2009年再访加拿大落基山的流水账:
Day 1:
Fly to Calgary through Seattle
Drive to Banff (80 miles)
Visit Lake Minnewanka, seeing a mole deer
Hike to Cascade Falls through a fine meadow, seeing two mountain goats far far away
Visit Bow Falls (nice rock formation), Fairmont Hotel & Hot Springs, seeing rainbows many times including double arches, lightnening while in the hot spring pool
Day 2:
Visit Vermilion Lakes (#1 & #2), Bow Valley PKWY (supposed to be animal-abundant), Hisdale Outlook, Johnston Canyon & its Lower Falls, see 2 elks, Castle Mountain Outlook, see 1 elk, Storm Mountain Outlook
See a Grizzly Bear on HWY 1 on the way to the Emerald Lake of Yoho National Park, Stop by the Visitor Center and find the Takakkaw is still closed (normally open in late June, but will be much later due to snow this year)
Visit Emerald Like
Check in Paradise Lodge & Bungalows (#17, very good, a suite with views of mountain & meadow & 2 TVs), go to Lake Louise (squirrel, birds), Morain Lake (much drier with much lower water level than 2004)
Day 3:
Morning trip to Lake Louise (like 2004)
3rd Visit to Lake Louise
On the way to Jasper: Lake Hebert, Hector Lake, Bow Lake, hike to Peyto Lake, Waterfowl Lake and Mountain Chephren
While stepping out of car at the Weeping Wall, we are warned of a black bear right next (everyone else 瓦s in the car), see another black bear right after, Parker Ridge Outlook, stop by the Icefield & Graciers, Tangle Falls, hike to Sunwapta Falls
Check in at The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge (a 900-acre resort with two lakes and wonderful views and facilities)
Day 4:
Visit Paramid Lake, Patricia Lake
Drive to the Minnete Hot Spring, Jasper Lake, Talbot Lake, seeing blue dragonflies, 2 big-horn sheep, 8 big-horn sheep (including 5 babies) on Pokohanta Road, in the Hot Spring Pool while it’s raining, see 2 white-tailed deers at the parking lot. On the way back, see 1 black bear Mom with 3 cubs and 1 black bear on the Pokohanta Road. On Hwy 16, see 2 white-tailed deers and 2 elks.
Back to the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, walk at hotel lakes, seeing geese on the meadow. See elk family (16+) across the Beauvert Lake, cross the Lake, Eat bushes and play right in front of our suite until 10:30pm
Day 5:
About 40 wild geese are eating and playing on the Lake.
Drive to the Maligne Lake. Stop by Medicine Lake outlooks. Short walk around the Maligne Lake, taking some great Grey Jay pictures, take Maligne Lake Boat Tour to the Spirit Island.
On the way back, see one black bear Mom with 2 cubs (very good views) and 5 big-horn (including 1 baby) around the Medicine Lake, stop by the Medicine Lake, see 1 rabbit, 3 elks and 3 deers, visit the Maligne Canyon and 1st (best), 5th (ok) & 6th bridge, visit Annette and Edith lakes.
Day 6:
Walk around the Beauvert Lake.
Drive back to Calgary (Heavy driving 420+ km), stop by Athabasca Falls, Canyon and River. See 2 mountain goats (including a cub) and another mountain goat right before the Icefield. See 1 black bear around the Bow Lake.
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